Maintenance

2-3 Person crew, Starting about March 1st. We do this to set the yard up for another year and get a head start on issues rolling over from the previous season.

1. Review of all plants – Site leader is responsible for reviewing all plants and crew members are to begin pruning
   1. Prune plants using the 3D’s, Dead, Damaged, Diseased.
      1. Remove entire plant only if necessary 
   2.  Prune Plants using the 2F’s, Function and Form
      1. Look at overall plant density and shape
      2. Look for problem areas such as branches onto paths or driveways
   3. Remove all Decomposing plant material from the body or base of Plants
2. Clean up
   1. Remove winter burlap from evergreens
   2. Level out mulch from around Roses and remove leaves
3.  Fertilize
   1. It is important to fertilize each plant correctly in order to sustain healthy vigorous growth
      1. There are multiple types of fertilizer for different plant needs. Check with a trained individual to fertilize properly.
   2. Fertilizer should be spread within 6 inches of the drip zone and should never sit on plant foliage or at the plant base. We want to encourage the right places for growth, the drip zone is the best place for water nutrients to be pulled from.
   3. Each plant should receive about 1/4 cup of the required, Small perennials will get slightly less and larger shrubs will be more
      1. Broadcast also known as Acer is a broad spectrum fertilizer good for most perennials and hard to fertilize hedges
      2. Rose Food specifically meant for roses
      3. Rhododendron food is meant for Rhodo’s, Azaleas and Hydrangeas 
         1. When fertilizing these plants it is best to combine with equal parts granular sulphur. This will help break down nutrients to be available as well as provide a more acidic environment for these shrubs to grow 
      4. Evergreen fertilizer stakes are meant for all evergreen plants most commonly used on hedges.
         1. To be combined with sulphur
         2. Refer to all package labelling for designed application rates
      5. Deciduous tree stakes are meant for trees that go dormant in the winter season.
         1.  Also meant to be combined with sulphur
         2. Refer to all package labelling for designed application rates
4. Dormant oil all Roses, and any other plants that have populations of aphids, scale, Phylloxera, mites, or any type of fungus
   1. 1. The surrounding ground should also be sprayed 
5. Cultivate
   1. 1. With a metal shrub rake motion side to side to cultivate the top layer of mulch or soil
         1. Mix all fertilizer into the ground for best absorption 
            1. Ensure fertilizer will get hit by irrigation to help break down the outer coating and release the nutrients.
         2. Finally shrub beds will be either ruffle raked or flat.
   2. Complete the final blow and clean up tools

Tools list

• Felco or hand pruners
• 2 Sheers 
• Hedgers
• Pruning saw
• 2 Loppers
• 5 6×8 tarps and 1 10×12 tarp
• 2 8in metal shrub rake
• 2 16in metal shrub rake
• 2 24in fan/leaf rakes
• 1-2 Backpack blowers
• 1 Hand blower
• 1 Dutch hoe
• 1 Hori Hori or hand trowel

Material List

• Rose food
• Rhododendron fertilizer
• Broadcast/Acer
• Evergreen stakes
• Deciduous stakes
• Tiger 90 (sulphur)

 

2-3 Person crew size. To be completed asap between April 1st and 20th. 

1. Person 1  begins Line Trimming upon arrival
   1. Upon completion, Person 1 will begin Hard Edging. 
   2. Upon completion Person 1 will use available blower to clear hard surfaces of debris just before mowing starts 
2. Person 2 begins Aerating 
   1. To determine aggressiveness of aeration a soil core sample must be taken prior to start.
   2. Upon completion Person 2 will being to rake with a fan rake
3. Person 3 will follow behind the Aerator with the Power Rake
4. Person 1 will follow Persons 2-3 with a leaf rake
5. Person 3 will start Mowing after completing Power Raking. Following Persons 1-2 
   1. Before mowing ensure the grass is blown off hard surface edges to be picked up by the mower.
6. Overseeding then fertilizing and moss control are to be completed last.
   1. Over-seeding is to be done with the proper shade or sun mix and put on all areas that are thin, patchy or damaged. Spread by hand or in large applications with a hydraulic seeder
      1. If damage requires repair, it is to be noted and scheduled
   2. Is always to be completed with a commercial grade spreader on setting K or 25.
      1. Moss control is easiest spread by hand as it is usually needed in small areas 

Tools & Materials List:

• 10L minimum of Mix and Straight gas
• Shade and sun grass seed
• Spreadable moss control
• Power head
• Line Trimmer attachment 
• Hard Edger attachment
• Power Rake
• Aerator
• 1 Backpack blower
• 1-2 Push mowers and/or 1 walker mower
• 5 6x8ft and 2 10x12ft tarps
• 3 24in fan/leaf rakes
• 2 18in metal shrub bed rakes
• 1 hard rake
• 1 tool set
• 1 blower pull cord replacement 
• 1 mower pull cord replacement
• 6 spring (25-5-15) fertilizer bags
• 12ft Black utility trailer
• If available an extra truck for debris is nice to have (Isuzu is great)

 

2 Person crew size. Needs to be completed within 1 week on the lawn start up.

1. Person 1 lay a tarp under the edge of the truck/trailer to keep road clean
2. The lawn should be a short as possible to make applying the material easiest
   1. Bring a mower if it has  been longer than 1 week
3. Person 1-2 Fill a barrow with NG Top-Dressing Mix
4. Person 1-2 Begin in the furthest corner of the lawn and work you way out of the area
   1. Spread material across the lawn at a thickness of ¼” to ⅜” 
5. Person 1 review application and use a fan rake to spread out areas that are too thick
6. Person 2 Blow off hard surfaces and pack up all tools

Tools & Materials List

• 2 Barrows
• 2 scoop shovels
• 2 Flat head shovels
• 1 Hand Blower
• 1 Truck or Dump trailer 
• 1 Aluminum Ramp (if needed)
• 2 6x8ft tarps
• 2 24in fan/leaf rakes
• 1 broom
• 1 Mower
• 1 Line Trimmer
• 1 5L Mix and straight gas

 

2-3 Person Crew. Mulching is generally done when perennials haven’t grown to full size so that it is easy to maneuver and rake. The Goal is to get a 6cm (3 inch) depth over the entire area. Proper coverage and depth is key to a great product and service. Typically 1.25 man hours are required PER YARD from prep to finish. This sometimes varies due to the difficulty of the work area, but is worked into the price and time allotted per job.

Bark Mulch Procedure

1. Ready and Protect the Site (Person 1)
   1. Set up tarps under the truck or trailer so we do not drop mulch on the ground. This makes for easy clean up.
   2. Place a large tarp for mulch to be dumped on. If extra space is needed to place removed debris or if the mulch will be delivered directly to site.
   3. Ensure if there are any soft turf areas or stairs that the proper ramp or plywood is put down to prevent damage.
2. Prepping for mulch (Person 2 and 3)
   1. 2. Start at the farthest place from the truck and work your way out
      3. On all hard surface edges (including irrigation valve boxes) that meet a shrub bed remove or regrade the soil depth to 6cm (3 inches) below the desired finishing grade.
      4. On all turf edges remove or regrade the soil depth to 15 cm (6 inches) below the desired finishing grade.
      5. Remove all debris (sticks, rocks, soil clumps, leaf or other soft debris)
      6. Ensure around every plant the soil level is reduced by minimum 2.54cm (1 inch)
      7. All trees must be checked to find the root flare
      8. Clean off hard surface edges so soil isn’t blown onto the fresh mulch at the end
3. Mulching
   1. Persons 1 and 2 start moving barrows of mulch.
   2. Person 3 will grade out mulch using a hard rake
   3. Spread mulch from the back to front of the shrub beds at a depth of 6cm (3 inches)unless otherwise notified
   4. Ensure no irrigation pop ups, rotors or valve boxes are covered while spreading.
   5. All plants need to be left exposed
      1. Trees, woody plants and shrubs should maintain a 3-5cm gap from the trunk
      2. All other plants the mulch can come up to the base but maximum 1inch depth
   6. After all mulch is spread Person 1 uses the back of a fan rake and runs it over thefresh mulch to ensure it is even and has no footprints
4. Clean up
   1. 1. Person 2 Put away the remainder of the mulching tools and remove any protective coverings
      2. Person 3 Blow excess mulch into the beds but soil now must be removed and not blown into the fresh mulch. If there are stains on pathways or debris on plants, hose off and scrub with a broom if needed.

Rock Mulch

1. Person 1 Ready and Protect the Site
   1. Set up tarps under the truck or trailer so we do not drop mulch on the ground. 2. Place a large tarp for Rock to be dumped on if needed..
   2. Ensure if there are any soft turf areas or stairs that the proper ramp or plywood is put down to prevent damage.
2. Person 2-3 Prepping for Fabric
   1. Start at the farthest place from the truck and work your way out
   2. On all hard surface edges (including valve boxes) that meet a shrub bed regrade the soil depth to 6cm (3 inches) below finishing grade.
   3. On all turf edges regrade the soil depth to 15 cm (6 inches) below the desired finishing grade.
   4. Remove all debris (sticks, rocks, soil clumps, leaf or other soft debris)
   5. Ensure around every plant the soil level is reduced by minimum (1 inch) 6. Locate root flare on all trees
   6. Clean off hard surface edges so soil isn’t blown onto the fabric and fresh rock at the end
3. Person 1-2 Laying Landscape Fabric
   1. Ensure you have the right size fabric roll and the tools for the job, (6 ft is most common)
   2. Lay fabric down staking every 5-6 feet. 
   3. To make a spot for a plant, slice a X into the fabric and fold the corners under.
   4. Where fabric ends fold edges under so that fabric does not stick up through the rock 5. Overlap by 15-20cm (6-8 inches) and stake through both layers.
   5. Ensure all fabric is secure.

4. Person 1-3 Laying Rock Mulch

1. 1. After the fabric is down and secure, Persons 2 and 3 begin wheelbarrowing rock to your starting point
   2. Person 1 Spreads  the rock out as it is dumped. Cover the fabric with 1.5-2.5” of rock.(1.5-2.5 inches).
   3. Once the worksite is about 75% covered with mulch Person 3 can begin washing the rocks, plants and pathways with a hose.
   4. When the rock is laid down it should be a nice even grade the entire bed with no fabric or irrigation showing

1. Clean up
   1. Person 1 Scan the site for any missed sections or low areas
   2. Person 2-3 Clean up the tools and wash any remaining work areas 

Rock Mulch Tools & Materials List

• Wheelbarrows (usually one per person) 
• 1-2 hard rakes 
• 1-2 Flat head D-spade 
• 1-2 Flat head shovels 
• 1-2 Regular shovels 
• 1 Broom 
• 1 Hand or Backpack blower 
• 1 50-100ft hose with spray nozzle 
• 1-2 Exacto knife(s) 
• Fabric roll 
• Landscape Staples 
• 1-2 Hammers 

Bark Mulch Tools & Materials List

• Wheelbarrows (usually one per person) 
• 1-2 hard rakes 
• 1 Fan rake 
• 1-2 Flat head D-spade 
• 1-2 Flat head shovels 
• 1-2 Regular shovels 
• 1 Broom 
• 1 Hand or Backpack blower 
• 1 50-100ft hose with spray nozzle 
• 1-3 Large scoop shovels 

1 Person crew beginning around the second week of April. We do this to set everything up and ensure the best use of water is maintained.

1. Minimum 1 week before starting, an email should be sent to the entire start up list asking to turn the water back on.
2. Ensure water is on and you have access to the irrigation clock/controller 
3. Begin by checking/setting the Date and Time on the clock/controller.
   1. Confirm that no clocks/controller are running simultaneously
   2. Change out the clock/Controller 9 volt battery if needed
      1. The goal is to have all watering done by 6am.
4. Review the clock to ensure the watering days, station run times, and program run times are correct
5. Set the seasonal budget to 70% for Spring and fall Temperatures 
   1. As the season becomes warmer adjust the budget between 70%-120%
      1. If there are particular zones still dry, they may also require an adjustment to the station run time.
6. Beginning with station 1, cycle through all the zones to confirm proper functionality
   1. We are looking for:
      1. Running water, 
      2. Clogged nozzles/emitters, 
      3. Heads not rotating, 
      4. Low zone pressure, 
      5. All plants and turf are getting the right amount of water, and 
      6. Any way to reduce water use and waste.
7. Once system functionality is confirmed, clean out all system filters using a toothbrush.
   1. Filters are usually in valve boxes
   2. Clean out valve boxes that are filled with material.
8. Fixing any of the issues above will set us up for a good year so take your time.
   1. The least amount of water possible given is the ideal
      1. Lower water use and help plants push roots farther, wider and deeper to find water and nutrients
9. Note any broken valve boxes, unfixable issues and/or areas for improvement.

Zone suggested run length

Lawn rotors between a Shady 35 minutes – Sunny 60 minutes

Fixed Spray and Microjet zones Between a shady 10 minutes – Sunny 25 minutes

Drip zones between a shady 30 minutes – Sunny 65 minutes

(Cedar drip is almost always 50-70 minutes)

 

Tools & Materials List

• Irrigation tray
• Red T-handle extraction tool
• PVC cutters
• PVC saw
• PVC cable saw
• Red hot PVC glue
• Assorted PVC couplings in 5 gallon pail with trays
• 1in and 3/4in slip fixes
• 10ft of 1in and 3/4in PVC pipe
• 1 Flat head D-spade
• 1 Shovel
• 1 City mainline water key
• 1 Trenching shovel 
• 1 8in metal shrub rake
• 1 hori hori or hand trowel
• 1 vacuum bailer
• 3 dry clean cloths
• Assorted Rotors, pop up sprays, fixed sprays, micro jet assemblies 
• Assorted nozzles to fit all above types of irrigation
• Assorted drip emitters and couplings
• 50ft 1/4in Ram line and poly line
• Extra landscape staples

 

2-3 Person crew. Starts the last week of April and continues for most clients the rest of the year.

1. Person 1 will gear up and begin line trimming, Person 2 will begin blowing the beds, Person 3 will assess the site.
   1. If in a team of two, Person 1 begins on the tasks while the leader assesses the site, talks with the client and discusses any additional needs and creates an action plan to communicate with the team 
2. After the leader has found any new issues or actions to be taken that has changed from last weeks plan they will then let the crew know what else needs to be done
   1. If a plant(s) are stressed for any reason or there are brown areas in the lawn action for these are to be corrected (or plan set to have corrected) before moving on to any other task.
      1. Issues such as: irrigation, pest action threshold being met, damaged or any potential damage to property, etc.

 

1. Upon completion, begin shrub bed and annual maintenance. 
   1. Person 1 Prune, dead head, or shape as needed before clean up
   2.  Person 2 continues to blow all debris to a open area to be removed
      1. Only when necessary blow debris under or past hedges to be picked up on other side, pick out any debris that got trapped in the hedge
      2. Always angle the blower so that it does not push the mulch out of the beds or pile under/on plants
      3. When possible, blow debris onto the lawn for the mower to pick up. Sticks are not to be mowed. Rake up medium to large quantities of debris as it will be easier on the mower motor and blade sharpness.

1. Person 3 fertilize any struggling plants, new plantings and annuals (minimum bi-weekly)
   1. Notify leader of any possible issues

1. Person 2 blow debris from hard surface onto the lawn 
   1. Person 1 mows lawn to desired height as per the client’s request or the lowest seasonal cut height
      1. Spring start 1in
      2. Late Spring 1.5in
      3. Summer 2-2.5in
      4. Fall 1.5in
      5. Last cut in fall to be as low as possible without damage to the mower or grass.
   2. Upon completion the lawn can be fertilized and sprayed with Par 3 by Person 3
   3. Irrigation Maintenance can be started before, during, or after mowing 
      1. Shrub beds first so the lawn stays dry and is easy to cut
2. Ensure any client requests or client specific checklist tasks are completed
3. Blow of the hard surfaces one last time and pick up any remaining debris 
4. Wash any areas that became muddy
5. Leader will complete a site walk through to assess if the work completed meets CRL standards and establish a plan for the following visit. Any issues are to be noted in the site report and communicated to the manager. Talk to the client if they need to be informed of anything.
6. Double check the site before leaving for tools, debris, forgotten tasks, training opportunities, or appreciations

Tools & Materials List

• Push or ride on mower
• Line trimmer
• Backpack blower
• Handblower
• Handheld hedge trimmer
• Extension Hedger power head attachment 
• Power Head
• 2 8in Shrub rakes
• 2 14in Shrub rakes
• 2 24in Fan/leaf rakes
• 1 hard rake
• 1 10x12ft tarp 
• 4 6x8ft tarps
• 2 Sheers
• 2 Loppers
• 1 Pole Pruners
• 1 Pole saw
• 1 Root saw
• 1 Hatchet
• 2 Collapsible safety cones
• 5L straight and mixed gas
• 100ft Collapsible hose with spray nozzle
• Tool set for adjustment and minor machine repair 

Also Good to have in the trailer:

• Irrigation maintenance and service supplies
• Liquid Organomex Fertilizer
• Deep root watering probe
• Sprays and documentation for IPM

 

2-3 person crew beginning mid-late October. We do this to ensure the yard is ready for winter and makes the spring easier so we can focus on pruning and plant health.

1. Person 1 and 2 will work together to cut perennials to appropriate height. Example person 1 holds foliage while person 2 cuts. Ensure the person holding the foliage is ready and safe.
   1. The following perennials are not to be cut down 
      1. Hellebores – Lenten Rose
      2. Heuchera – Coral bells
2. Confirm if clients want tall grasses cut down prior to pruning. Or refer to the client specific checklist
3. Upon completion, trim any untidy plants to further clean the yard
4. Pruning woody plants – After perennials are cut back, one or both begin pruning. If one then the other can begin step 3.
   1. Roses: Remove 1/3-1/2 of the height,  strip all leaves and then cover the bottom 6-10” of the stems with mulch (Hilling Up)  
   2. Lavender: Trim off flowers and tighten up plant growth 
   3. Remove any uneven new growth or excess weight from plants 
5. Person 2 or 3 can begin leaf clean up.
   1. 1. Blow or rake into piles and tarp into truck
      2. Clean out leaves that are stuck inside plants, fence panels, hedges, etc.
6. Empty any remaining annual pots and remove soil as needed
   1. 1. Remove all soil from Clay pots to prevent cracking
      2. Remove half the soil from all other pots to prevent damage
7. Tie yews in one to two spots to create a tight bunch but still allows some air flow. Other selected plants may need the same 
   1. Wrap burlap for protection for plants located in windy areas and from deer
8. The goal is to leave the site as clean and tidy as possible for the week and/or the Winter. Also to prevent as much possible damage.
   1. 1. If it is the last scheduled visit and it requires one more cleaning, let the manager know and/or speak with the client directly to authorize the extra visit.
9. Upon Completion, ‘ruffle’ rake the beds and to grab any last missed debris.
   1. 1. Wash any paths and driveways of debris or mud on your way out of the property
      2. Double check no leaves were blown onto neighbouring properties

Extra Tools List

• 10L mix gas and 5L straight gas
• 1 Mower if still able to cut grass or suck up leaves
• Enough premium mulch to hill the roses on site
• Twine roll
• Burlap and zap straps if needed

 

2-3 Person crew beginning mid September right until snowfall. We do this to maintain clean and winter ready hedges. It also helps keep hedges from over growing into the garden beds.

1. Hedge clean out
   1. Confirm with the client that if they want the hedge cleaned out, it is recommended.
   2. Using a backpack blower  blow all of the debris to the easiest area to clean up
      1. Start from the top of the cedar down, using a ladder where needed
      2. Blow near parallel to the faces of the hedge that will be trimmed
2. Rake all debris out from under the cedars and final blow to remove any remaining debris

1. Trimming 
   1. If the cedars are 10+ feet, set up the scaffold ladder, plank and ladder jacks. Person 1 can trim the top and the top half of the front face
      1. Anything past 16ft needs a taller orchard ladder 
   2. Person 2 lays out tarps as close as possible to the hedge. They can be rotated and emptied along as progressing
   3. It is best to have person one blowing, person 2 rotating tarps and person 3 trimming.
2. Clean up
   1. 1. Rake and blow all debris onto tarps and load into truck
   2.  Blow off the house, cars, patio furniture, etc at the end.

Tools & Materials List

• 2 Extension Hedge trimmer attachment 
• 1 handheld Hedge trimmer
• 1-2 backpack blowers
• 20L mix gas
• 1 24in leaf rake
• 2 8in metal shrub rakes
• 1-2 18in metal shrub rakes
• 10 6x8ft tarps
• 1-2 10x12ft tarps
• 1 Aluminum Scaffold plank
• 2 Aluminum Scaffold Ladders
• 2 Aluminum Scaffold Jacks
• 9-16ft Aluminum orchard ladder

 

1 Person crew beginning mid October ending before the first week of November. We do this to prevent freezing damage in winter

1. Minimum one week prior to starting this service, the manager is to send an email to all clients on the list asking to have the inside irrigation water valve and the irrigation controller turned off. Unless we are assigned to do it.
   1. Set up runs and call the client the night before to ensure it is off
2. Prior to leaving the yard ensure that the diesel compressor is fueled up and that you have the proper attachments.
3. Confirm that the water is shut off by opening the point of connection.
4. Start and allow the diesel compressor to warm
5. Run the compressor hose with the proper whip checks in place to the irrigation hook up
6. Where possible, shut off the isolation valve so air pressure is not put against the house plumbing
7. Open valves and begin blowing out the water
   1. Larger systems can have one or two valves open at a time.
   2. Smaller systems can have 2-3 valves open at a time
8. Cycle through all the zones in each valve box until there is a fine mist coming out and the whining from drip irrigation is consistent 
   1. Complete one valve box at a time 
   2. Count the number of valves complete and reference the clock to the total amount of zones
   3. Tall fixed pop ups or rotor heads need to be stepped on to ensure the water is completely blown out 
9. Once complete, run through each zone individually to confirm it is complete. Finally open and close each zone to “burst” air through
10. After all zones are complete leave one valve open to decompress the system after the air compressor is detached 
    1. Close this valve when no air is heard still exiting the system
11. Re-open the isolation valve with your ear next to the point of attachment  and listen for any  water re-entering the system.
    1. If water re-enters the system, wait for it to stop, hook back up again and run air through the valves again. 
    2. Repeat step 3 until sure the water is gone 
12. Roll up the compressor Hose 
13. Blow off hard surfaces where necessary.

Tools & Materials List

• Diesel compressor full of fuel 
• 3 50ft compressor hose 
• 5 approved whip checks
• 1/2 and 3/4 inch hose bib Attachments
• Irrigation repair kit
• City mainline key
• 1 shrub rake
• 1 shovel 
• 1 D handle flat head shovel
• 1 trenching shovel
• 1 hand blower full of gas

 

You are now onsite and ready to start the shrub bed servicing. It is most efficient to blow out beds with lots of debris when things are relatively dry to moist. Typically this is done onto the lawn before mowing or onto a hard surface. 

1. Read the stated pages for proper operation: 
   1. Back Pack Blowers (Pages 16-27)
   2. Hand Blowers  (Pages 12-18)
2. Start your Engine and let it warm
3. Plan your route on your own if it is just you blowing or with your team 
   1. Questions to ask
      1. Where will I blow it too?
      2. What is the best route to get it there?
   2. Once you have a planned route, keep this consistent every time you are there to service. This will lead to better efficiency and allow you to tweak it for best results
4. Blow the beds out and hard surfaces off once the line trimmer has finished in a given area
   1. PROTIPs – Knock off boots before stepping out of shrub beds to help keep hard surfaces clean
   2. When blowing in windy conditions, work with the wind as best as possible then rake what is left in the beds
   3. Blowing against walls will wrap the air back towards your feet getting the debris away from the walls. Don’t use full power as it will push mulch away and/or gets mud on the walls
   4. Blowing on a nearer parallel to the ground helps remove surface debris without removing mulch or soil from beds
   5. Blowing on a steeper angle to lawns will help remove stuck debris
   6. When blowing stuck debris in plants or rocks use ¼ power, go close to the debris and rock while rotating your nozzle in a circular motion.
   7. When blowing wide open areas move nozzle in a side to side swath motion
5. 1. As you move past plants, check to see if any debris are caught in the base and blow it out as needed
      1. PROTIP – Do not push mulch into the base of trees and/or plants, this can cause major health issues 
6. Consolidate piles and continue until the property is all blown
   1. PROTIP – To consolidate piles, walk in a circle around your debris pushing them inward, as you get closer to the center use less and less power.
7.  Ensure anything that may have blown onto the neighbors yard is cleaned up

Used to make a cut between 1”- 8” at a height in a safe reach. It generally sees most of its use in spring and after storms. 

1. Read the stated pages for proper operation: 
   1. STIHL  (Pages 3-25, 30-31, 33-36)
2. Start and warm your engine while creating a plan to prune off the limb(s).
3. First about 1 foot from the desired final cut, make a small under side cut on the limb to be pruned or removed
   1. Then from the top side of the same spot cut downward to remove the branch
4. Repeat step 3. at the desired final cut
   1. PROTIP – Be careful not to cut any other surrounding branches or too far into the trees branch collar
   2. Do not cut above yourself or anyone else, and make other aware when you will be removing any limbs 
   3. A chainsaw can kick back. Do your best to cut on the lower side of the chain. 
   4. Avoid having it in a spot where the limb will shift and pinch the chain. Typically this happens when the undercut is too deep 
   5. DO NOT let the chain touch the ground, if any sand or soil gets into the chain it will dull very fast
5. Repeat steps 3&4 until all pruning is complete
6. Chopping up debris on the ground
   1. Ensure there are no tripping hazards around your work area
   2. Put your hands firmly on the handles with one behind the chain brake. 
   3. Never stand looking down over your saw while cutting. If it kicks back it could swing back towards you the operator
   4. Always cut with the branch or log closest to the bottom back of the saw where the chain renters the machine. Here at this point is much safer and prevents kick back.
   5. When cutting long limbs, ensure you determine how to avoid pinching the chain as it moves with cutting
      1. Lay the limb as flat as possible propped up onto another piece laying horizontal on the ground. This will help control your cuts and prevent kick back.
   6. Do not let the chain blades touch the soil as it will dull them extremely fast
7. Clean your chainsaw out as best you can and place it in the shop on the table for sharpening.
   1. This is to be done after every use no matter how long it was used for.

Deadheading plants is a crucial part of summer maintenance for plant aesthetics. Done the right way and it can encourage the wanted growth and health, while the wrong way can decline health and suppress growth. Almost always using bypass pruners

1. Identify a plant that is flowering and check if any flowers are spent
   1. What kind of plant is it? And is deadheading needed
   2. Are the flowers wilting or turning brown?
   3. Are any flower petals around on the ground?
2. Perennials
   1. Roses
      1. Prune to the next leaf with 5-7 leaflets until mid september then only remove the forming rose hips (where the flower was)
   2. Rudbeckia and Echinacea
      1. Prune to the next flower stem or leaf down July-October
      2. Come October it is better to leave and cut entire plant down at once
   3. Upright Phlox
      1. Prune to the next emerging flower or branch
      2. Only flowers for about 4 weeks in late spring
   4. Salvia and Nepeta
      1. Allow to near finish flowering, cut the entire plant to within 6in of the ground
         1. Do this 2-3 times per season
            1. About every 4-6 weeks in summer starting late May (late May, late June/early July and mid August)
         2. Cut down for the season any time in late september, early October
   5. Lavender
      1. Cut flower stems back to the foliage and tighten foliage only if overly shaggy
         1. Do this 2-3 times per season
         2. Cut before the new flowers push up otherwise it will suppress the next flowering cycle
   6. Hosta
      1. Prune flower stems deep into foliage so you don’t see them
         1. The stems dry and get stiff when finished, if pruned just below foliage surface they can stab through foliage wrecking appearance or cut hands when working with foliage
   7. Spirea
      1. Cut flower stems back to the foliage and tighten foliage only if overly shaggy
         1. Do this 2-3 times per season
         2. Cut before the new flowers push up otherwise it will suppress the next flowering cycle
      2. Do Not cut Bridal Spirea past May
         1. These are spring flowering spirea that set flower buds near 1 year in advance. Can be safely pruned after flowering then left until next year
   8. Yarrow 
      1. Prune to the next emerging flower or branch
         1. Then cut the stem to the plant base after flowering finishes
   9. Daisy
      1. Prune to the next emerging flower or branch
         1. Then cut the stem to the plant base after flowering finishes
   10. Gaillardia
       1. Pinch or prune flowers off the flower stem attachment point as they finish blooming
   11. Daylilies
       1. As each flower finishes on its stem, pinch the base of the flower and pull sideways
          1. Once the stem has no more flowers to bloom, prune stem as low as possible
   12. Hyssop
       1. Pinch or prune flowers off the flower stem attachment point as they finish blooming
3. Annuals
   1. Petunias
      1. Shake foliage in hands then pick off shriveling flowers
         1. Once per month they grow leggy, long and into other plants, cut back plant by half and remove undergrowth as it builds up 
   2. Calibrachoa
      1. Shake foliage in hands
   3. Geraniums
      1. Feel down the stem below the flower head, there is a bulge near the stem’s attachment point. Pinch the bulge while pulling away from the plant and it should snap off easily and cleanly. Prune off at the same point if needed
   4. Gazina
      1. Prune as low as possible into the foliage 
         1. The oldflowers resemble the new ones but pedals become more curled and/or dark in color
   5. Zinnia
      1. Prune to the next flower stem or attachment point
   6. Dahlia
      1. Prune to the next flower stem or attachment point
   7. Osteospermum
      1. Prune off flowers as they finish
         1. Once mid season cut the plant down by half to restart the flowering and control height
   8. Marigold
      1. Pinch or prune flowers off the flower stem attachment point as they finish blooming
   9. Lantanas
      1. Pinch or prune flowers off the flower stem attachment point as they finish blooming
   10. Annual Salvia
       1. Pinch or prune flowers off the flower stem attachment point as they finish blooming
   11. Snapdragons 
       1. Pinch or prune flowers off the flower stem attachment point as they finish blooming

Use a hard edger along hard surfaces whenever the lawn may over grow the edge. Generally we do this once per season in conjunction with the lawn startup. It would be the second tool used during a lawn start. 

1. Read the stated pages for proper operation:
   1. STIHL FCS – KM Extension Hard Edger (pages 9-11)
   2. STIHL KM 131 Kombi unit (pages 11-17)
      1. This Kombi unit motor size (131) is required for the hard edger.
2. Warm engine while making a mental note or flagging irrigation heads along the hard surface
3. Use the hard edger along all concrete, asphalt, brick, and flagstone edges to trim a minimum of half an inch below the height of the hard surface.
   1. Concrete
      1. Normally there is a 2in 90 degree formed edge to which it is easy to run the blade along without wearing down the blade or damaging the concrete
   2. Asphalt
      1. Normally a rounded edge into the ground to which the grass grows over the rounded area to join evenly with the asphalt surface
      2. When using along asphalt be careful not to eat into the lawn too much if the asphalt is partly covered
      3. Also be careful as asphalt edges can easily be cracked or already loose becoming subject to damage and shooting small particle at the operator or passer bys
   3. Brick and Flagstone
      1. Normally has a 22-45 degree concrete edge which holds the brick edge tight in place so when trimming the edge be careful the blade isn’t running on the concrete or trimming into the lawn.1/2in may not be possible along some brick or flagstone edges
         1. PROTIP – raise up the height of the cutting blade so you can safely trim the edge and not damage anything

 

1. A small amount of downward force walking as fast as the blade will cut through the thatch layer. But let the machine do the work for you and it will naturally pull forward as allows
   1. Go over spots twice if need be or you can pull the unit towards to go over a spot again as needed

It is time to trim a hedge, typically Buxus (Boxwoods), Thuja (Cedars) and Taxus (Yews). Trimming these possibly for privacy, plant health, winter snow load and aesthetics. 

1. Read the stated pages for proper operation: 
   1. STIHL KM 131 Kombi unit (pages 11-17)
   2. STIHL KM 94 Kombi Unit (pages 9-14)
   3. STIHL 94 – KM Extension hedge trimmer (pages 9-10,13-16)
   4. KM Drive Tube Extension (See mounting instructions for extension hedge trimmer)
2. Warm the engine while setting up tarps and ladders (if needed) for trimmed debris to fall on
3. Look at the hedge you are about to trim from a few different angles
   1. From the front
      1. Does the hedge look dense with green?
      2. Are there any problems areas?
   2. Down the face
      1. Are there any inward or outward dips you need to continue to straighten?
   3. Up close
      1. How much green foliage do you have to work with so you do not cut off too much?
4. Begin Trimming the sides from at the farthest point of the hedge to the truck
   1. PROTIPs – while assessing the dips in and out of the hedge determine where you might need to trim more or less off in order to straighten the hedges appearance 
   2. Trimming on a slight angle to narrow the top of the hedge is the best way to get ensure longer term health 
   3. To trim as flat as possible, change the angle of the cutting blade out to the -1 setting. And tilt the blades no more than 10 degrees inward
   4. Never trim on the downward hand motion. This can cause branches to be pulled away from the hedge and cut off, to which will leave holes.
   5. Move at as little of your pivot points as possible. If the cutting blade is on your left side you want your left shoulder to move while you “lock” my left elbow in a comfortable strong position. This is to minimize the in and out drift of your arms while trimming to get it as straight as possible. Your right hand on the trigger stays tight close to your body “locked” in. Then to get the higher sections allow slow and steady motions of your arms and shoulders to reach up with the trimmer along the same axis. 
   6. Consistent motions establish muscle memory and increase speed and efficiency
   7. Take a step back and ensure you are still on the right track
5. Time for the tops
   1. Straighten the cutting blade angle and find what level you will be trimming the hedge at
   2. Make a test/starting area and see if it meets desired requirements
      1. Requirements 
         1. Trimming back to the clients desired height and slope/level
         2. Tightening up the top foliage so the snow will be less likely to pull out loose branches
         3. Is going to end with a straight line along the entire hedge whether it is supposed to be consistent with slope or level. 
   3. Once you are ready to continue, place yourself in a comfortable and safe position then “lock” your body into place at the height you want and twist at your waist while cutting. 
      1. PROTIP – Take 10 steps back every so often to ensure you are still on the right track, usually each ladder movement
6. Lubricate your cutting blades with fluid film or similar before each daily use or every time the machine needs to be fueled.

It is time to trim shrubs, typically Berkman cedars, globe cedars, barberries, stand alone yews. Trimming these for the health of the plant, winter snow load protection and aesthetics. 

1. Read the stated pages for proper operation: 
   1. STIHL KM 131 Kombi unit (pages 11-17)
   2. STIHL KM 94 Kombi Unit (pages 9-14)
   3. STIHL 94 – KM Extension hedge trimmer (pages 9-10,13-16)
   4. STIHL HS 56 & 82R (pages 7-17)
2. Warm the engine while setting up tarps for trimmed debris to fall on
3. Look at the shrub you are about to trim from a few different angles
   1. From the front, sides and back
      1. Does it look dense with green?
      2. Are there any problems areas?
      3. What is the goal?
         1. ex. You may keep a Berberis at 3′ by the front entrance but that doesn’t mean that the ones that might be further out in the yard can’t grow and be kept at a larger size
   2. Down the face 
      1. Are there any inward or outward dips you need to trim to make the sight line more consistent?
   3. Up close
      1. How much green foliage do you have to work with so you do not cut off too much?
4. Begin Trimming the sides from desired spot and round to the top
   1. 1. PROTIPs – while assessing the dips in and out, determine where you might need to trim more, less or none off in order to straighten or curve the edges appearance. 
      2. To trim as cleanly as possible, change the angle of the cutting blade as needed. And tilt the blades no more than 10 degrees inward while trimming 
      3. Never trim on the downward hand motion. This can cause branches to be pulled away from the hedge and cut off, to which will leave holes.
      4. Move at as little of your pivot points as possible. This means if the cutting blade is on my left side I would like my left shoulder to move but try to “lock” my left elbow in position. This is in an attempt to minimize the in and out drift of my arms while trimming to get it as straight/consistent as possible. My right arm would be on the trigger and stay tight close to my body “locked” in. Then to get the higher reaches allow slow and steady joint motion to reach up with the trimmer along the same axis. 
      5. Consistent motions to gain muscle memory is the way to get much faster at trimming
5. Work around the shrub trimming all the sides
   1. PROTIP – Take a step back every so often and ensure you are still on the right track
6. If it is a ball, round to the top, if it is a point round to a tip
7. Lubricate your cutting blades with fluid film or similar before each daily use or every time the machine needs to be fueled.

Insect spraying of all kinds is to be used as little as possible. It is used to help prevent or get a population of insects under control quickly and economically. Then we move back to biological control methods.

1. Gather and put on the required gear listed below with each type of herbicide or read the Material Data Safety Sheet (MDSS) on the side of the labelled concentrate
2. Ensure your spray tank is in good working condition
   1. Holds pressure, is clean, no visible leaks, straps are connected securely, and the handle trigger has full range of motion
3. Fill three quarters of the desired amount of water into the tank
   1. Double check what size your tank is before use. We have 15L, 12L, 8L and 5L tanks
4. Label the tank with a piece of tape written on with marker and the ratio mixed at
5. Calculate and add the herbicide amount to the water (ratios below)
6. Lightly rinse your measurement instruments into the tank while filling the final quarter of water
7. Rinse your measurement instruments again over a hard surface
8. PROTIP – (for all spraying) plan your spray route to include the least amount of insecticide exposure.
   1. This means starting in the farthest or tightest part of the work area and work out not stepping back through the area until safe to do so
   2. This will also lead to best results as you will not disturb the sprayed solution on your target area
9. Insecticides
   1. Floramite SC – Controls actively feeding two spotted spider mites by absorbing into the plant which the mites then consume while feeding
      1. Plants will have very small blotching on the leaves or needles and begin to look grey white from a far. Growth of the plant will also be heavily suppressed
      2. Ratio: 5ml per 10 Litre of water
         1. Spray to run off the surface evenly (solution is running quickly off plant foliage surface)
         2. This also includes branches, branch attachment points and 
         3. Spray max 2 cycles per year a minimum of 30 days apart
         4. PROTIP – when spraying Start from the top down so the run off solution begins the soaking of the lower branching 
         5. PROTIP – Spray any plants near to the target plant incase mites travel over to them or from the target plant or after to the target plant
         6. PPE – Wear long pants, long or short sleeve shirt, gloves, safety glasses and steel toe boots
            1. Long sleeve required if the spraying is over head
   2. Dormant oil – Coats eggs in a mineral oil barrier they cannot emerge from
      1. Ratio: 25ml per Litre of water
         1. This solution is used for control of insects before they emerge from dormancy in spring
            1. Must make contact with target pest 
            2. Such as mites, scale, aphids, thrips, white fly, leaf hopper or other egg bearing species
         2. Spray to run off on plant surface (solution is running quickly off plant foliage surface)
         3. PROTIP – Some eggs may lay dormant in the soil over winter, lightly spray the soil in the size of the plant drip line 
         4. PROTIP – For mid year use, spray in conjunction with Safer’s Soap, this will kill any alive insects while coating the eggs before they hatch
         5. PPE – Wear long pants, long or short sleeve shirt, gloves, and steel toe boots
   3. Lime Sulphur – Kills fungal spores before they spread
      1. Ratio: 50ml per Litre of water
         1. Spray to run off the surface evenly (solution is running quickly off plant foliage surface)
         2. This solution is used for the prevention of fungal spores damaging plant health and appearance
            1. Must make contact with target pest
            2. Such as powdery mildew, black spot, 
         3. PROTIP – Can be mixed in conjunction with dormant oil to prevent fungus and insects at the same time
            1. Use this solution for roses after spraying
      2. PPE – Wear long pants, long or short sleeve shirt, gloves, and steel toe boots
   4. Safer’s Soap – Soap agents coat and dry out insects
      1. Ratio: 20ml per litre of water
         1. Spray to run off the surface evenly (solution is running quickly off plant foliage surface)
         2. This solution is used for killing live feeding insects
            1. Must make contact with target pest
            2. Such as aphids, armoured scale (before hardening their shell), mites, white fly, and thrips
         3. PROTIP – Spray in conjunction with Dormant oil, this will coat any eggs while killing the feeding insects
         4. Can be sprayed as needed but would be beneficial to rinse foliage between applications
10. Fill out pesticide application records for documentation
11. If the tank is empty triple rinse safely on bare ground
    1. Wear any PPE needed for spraying the product being washed, rinse thoroughly,  pump clean water through the hose as well. Repeat 3 times
12. Place the tank securely back in storage

An aerator is used to create holes through the thatch layer of a lawn and helps decompact. This creates proper air and water penetration into the lawn so nutrients and water are easily absorbed through a deeper root system. 

1. Read the stated pages for proper operation: 
   1.  Ryan Walk-Behind Aerator (pages 9-11)
2. Ensure the water tank is filled
3. Warm the machine while completing step 4
4.  Use irrigation flags to mark the locations of  each irrigation head  in the lawn you are working on.
5. Lower tine engagement bar and pull back throttle handle
6. Aerate the around perimeter once
   1. NOTE: This machine is very strong, give yourself a minimum of one foot distance between a fence or wall. Let the machine do the work and focus your energy on guiding it and not holding it back
      1. PROTIPs – When moving around turns push handle bar down to lift the water tank off the ground for easier turning 
      2. Overlap your passes by 4 inches to ensure proper coverage
7. Find the longest safe path available and start across the lawn
   1. PROTIPs – If the cores/plugs coming out of the lawn are short or not present then it would be beneficial to aerate twice in different directions, We want a 2in core minimum
   2. Pushing the handle bar down during operation puts more  weight onto the tines to pull the deepest core possible
8. Finish the entire lawn and load the machine for transport
   1. REMINDER – Ensure the tines are raised back up to ensure no damage to hard surfaces when transporting

Used to scrape down the thatch layer of a lawn to allow better water and nutrient penetration. Also used for removal of dead material and breaking up cores removed by the aerator. Typically used directly after the aerator.

1. Read the stated pages for proper operation: 
   1. Dethatcher/Power Rake (pages 3-6)
2. Warm the machine while completing step 3
3. Mental map or Mark with irrigation flags where each irrigation head is in the lawn you are working on.
4. Lower tines to proper height (Pg 3 – 4.6 in the manual above) and pull back throttle handle
   1. Push down on the handle bar to raise tines off ground when starting or turning 
      1. To reiterate from the manual, always keep the unit in motion when the tines are engaged
5. Use the dethatcher the around perimeter once (typically following the aerator)
   1. PROTIP – Overlap your passes by 6 inches to ensure proper coverage
6. Find the longest safe path available and start across the lawn
   1. PROTIPs – If the lawn does not look as if been finished then it would be beneficial to dethatch twice (in different directions)
   2. It is easy to ruin the lawn, if you notice at all the lawn is thin or getting torn up, stop and move to a different location.
7. Finish the lawn and Load machine for transport
   1. REMINDER – When transporting, ensure the deck and tines are raised back up to ensure no damage to hard surfaces

Now that the shrub beds have been blown out and the line trimming is done it is time to mow. All location descriptions are looking from the operating position.  The goal is to mow the lawn while cleaning up any  debris left on the lawn.

 

1. Read the stated pages for proper operation: 
   1. Honda Commercial 21 inch mower (Pages 8-10, 16-17)
   2. EXmark commercial 21 inch mower (pages 13-20, 30-32)
   3. Walker mower (Pages 24-38)

 

1. Quickly check and clear the lawn for large debris (rocks, sticks over 1/4in, etc)
2. While the engine warms lay a tarp down for easy dumping of grass debris (unless you are within 25 feet of the truck)
3. Adjust the height of the mower
   1. Honda
      1. Refresh on Page 7
   2. EXmark
      1. Refresh on Page 18-19
   3. Walker 
      1. Refresh on Page 31
4. Engage the blade clutch 
   1. PROTIP – While starting the blades push down on the mower handle to lift the front of the mower deck off the lawn. This will ensure you do not leave rings of grass cutting where the mower is engaged.
5. 1. Honda – Push and hold the yellow blade clutch tab down and push handle forward 
   2. EXmark – Push and hold the metal safety lock down and pull handle towards you
   3. Walker – Lower throttle speed to half then pull up on the blade control
6. Mow one pass widths around the perimeter of the lawn when accessibility is good 
   1. PROTIP – The line trimmer should have trimmed tight corners for ease of mowing later, this prevents needing to get the mower into hard to reach areas.
7. 1. Mow two perimeter passes for lawns with tight areas such as against a fence
      1. PROTIPs – While mowing do not step into the shrub bed while turning
8. To start the first straight lines
   1. PROTIPs – When mowing straight lines always mow on a 45 degree angle to the windows or doors
   2. Switch your mow pattern and direction weekly to prevent rutting the lawn
   3. It helps to start cutting in the farthest part of the lawn when possible 
9. 1. Find something in the distance such as a tree, rock, etc.
   2. With the mower still engaged walk straight towards that point as if the mower was not there
10. Turn the mower around on the perimeter passes and begin next straight line pass
    1. PROTIPs – Attempt the least amount of turning and adjusting of the mower to prevent squishing the lawn down
    2. Try to clean mower bags before starting a new line, this will help keep the lines consistent in case the mower direction moves while removing and installing the bag
    3. Walker Mower is a much longer machine than most think. Keep a close eye on the box turning so there is no damage to anything. And another close eye on the back most wheels so it does not fall into the  edge
11. Continue Striping until the lawn is all cut
    1. PROTIP – Do not walk across the lawn with the mower if you need to exit the lawn, this would ruin the stripping you just mowed. Walk the perimeter path
    2. In order to dump the walker, take off the white side off the truck then slowly back up while raising the high dump unit and then dump directly into the truck bed
12. 1. To Consistently follow straight lines overlap mower wheels on previous wheel marks in grass
       1. If off track don’t be afraid to jump back a line or two and recut to ensure the straightest lines possible
13. Retrim the outermost perimeter pass to clean up turn marks and exit the lawn 
    1. Walker PROTIP – If there are multiple lawn sections with elevations between them you must drive backwards up a hill 
14. Blow off/clean up any debris that entered the beds or hard surfaces while mowing.

We have arrived onsite and someone grabs the line trimmer to begin the lawn portion of our service. The goal is to trim before we mow! 

1. Read the stated Pages for proper operation (use this manual for both units)
   1. STHIL FS 91R & FS KM 110 Attachment  (Pages 22-30)
2. Fuel up and start the engine to warm (if needed)  

 

1. Plan your route
   1. PROTIPs – Once you have planned a route try to stick to this route every visit, you will get faster and consistent results. But always challenge it to find the fastest safe route
2. 1. Walking backward or forward does not matter as long as you are getting good results at a quick pace
      1. Don’t be afraid to touch an area up to improve consistency
   2. Plan your route to trim the lawn with the least amount of walking from area to area. 
      1. Example 1: Back and front yard separated via distance and gate
         1. Horizontal and vertical trim (if needed) one area before moving to the next
      2. Example 2: Lawn wraps around the yard
         1. Horizontal trim the entire lawn in one big loop, then switch to vertical trim and begin the loop again

 

1. Begin horizontal trimming via your planned route
   1. Have the trimmer head of the machine level and a consistent height 
      1. PROTIPs – Try to make the edge of the lawn at grade or at least grade into the finished mowing height of the lawn
      2. When trimming, ensure the clippings are thrown onto the lawn and not into the bed. 
      3. When trimming against a rock wall, block wall, house, rock mulch shrub bed or asphalt let off the trigger by about half or more to slow down the rotation of the trimmer head. This will ensure that the line does not wear down as fast but still keep a consistent trim
   2. Ensure there is always the maximum amount of line out by tapping the head of the trimmer (while its rotating) on a hard surface
   3. Be aware of your surroundings at all times, as people walk through the yard you need to ensure their safety 
      1. This also goes for windows of any kind. Rocks are known to be thrown and break windows or hit people
   4. Walk as fast as the line trimmer will allow a quality trim
2. Begin Vertical trimming 
   1. PROTIP – The goal is to trim the grass that hangs over the edge of the bed. Do not let your trimmer line run against the edge of the shrub bed, over time it will enlarge the bed leaving it oblong and misshaped. This will look like dust, debris or dirt flying behind you as you trim 
3. 1. Turn the line trimmer over 180 degrees so the line is perpendicular to the turf, you can now vertical trim 
   2. Repeat or continue your planned route 
   3. Again be aware of your surroundings at all times, as people walk through the yard you need to ensure their safety 
      1. This also goes for windows of any kind. Rocks are known to be thrown and break windows or hit people. 
   4. Walk as fast as the line trimmer will allow a quality trim
4. Once finished Blow or have someone blowing, blow any clippings onto the grass

Used to make a cut between 1”-4” at a height out of a safe reach. Generally sees most use in spring and after storms. 

1. Read the stated pages for proper operation: 
   1. STIHL KM 131 Kombi unit (pages 11-17)
   2. STIHL KM 94 Kombi Unit (pages 9-14)
   3. STIHL HT- KM Extension pole pruner (chain saw) (pages 10-18)
2. Start and warm your engine while creating a plan to prune off the limb(s).
3. First about 1 foot from the desired final cut, make a small under side cut on the limb to be pruned or removed
   1. Then from the top side of the same spot cut downward to remove the branch
4. Repeat step 3. At the desired final cut
   1. PROTIP – Be careful not to cut any other surrounding branches or too far into the trees branch collar
   2. Do not cut above yourself or anyone else, and make other aware when you will be removing any limbs 
   3. As with a regular chainsaw there still can be kick back. Do your best to cut on the lower side of the chain. 
   4. Avoid having it in a spot where the limb will shift and pinch the chain. Typically this happens when the undercut is too deep 
   5. DO NOT let the chain touch the ground, if any sand or soil gets into the chain it will dull very fast
5. Repeat steps 3&4 until all pruning is complete

Using a power broom on hard surfaces, and artificial putting greens. It will clean up weeds, sand, and small rocks. 

1. Read the stated pages for proper operation:
   1. STIHL KB – KM Extension Power broom (pages 9, 11-13)
   2. STIHL KM 131 Kombi unit (pages 11-17)
      1. This Kombi unit motor size (131) is required for the power broom.
2. Warm engine while using a regular push broom to clean tight areas
3. Use the power broom to speed up cleaning of large areas of hard surface
   1. Warning the bristles will find all cracks and crevices, if brick pavers are separated the sand will be loose and push it out which can cause long term stability problems
4. Use the power broom to clean moss and gunk off artificial turf.
   1. Warning moving too slow or pushing too hard can melt the turf and bristles
5. A small amount of downward force while focusing most pressure on the front to back motion is all you need for best effectiveness
   1. PROTIP – The bristles rotate as such to push the machine towards the operator. Be ready for some push back but keeping the motor lower to the ground letting the bristles do the work is easiest 
   2. If brooming to a certain spot, while walking back to starting location, leaving the power broom on the ground and lightly pulling the trigger will help you walk with it instead of having to carry or drag it.

For cleaning any of the following; Trucks, trailers, machines, evergreen shrubs, and all hard surfaces

1. Read the stated pages for proper operation:
   1. none listed
2. Hook up the hose(s) and washer lines and start the water supply
3. Warm the engine over and orient your washer line around the area to be cleaned with no kinks in the line
   1. Place machine over roadway or on lawn to prevent leaks and spills causing damage or staining
   2. Double check while operating that no oil or gas leaks occur
4. Washing plants of debris, mildew and/or insects such as spider mites
   1. 1. If in a shrub bed, lay down (and over other plants) as many tarp as possible in a 10ft radius
         1. If there are insects this will prevent them from spreading to other plants after they have been knocked off
      2. Clean from the top down spraying the whole plant
      3. Always stay 8-10 inches from bark as the high pressure water can tear or cut through it
         1. Stay 6-8 inches away from foliage as it can get damaged or ripped off
      4. In an even and consistent pattern left to right, work the debris out of the plant body
         1. Prune out dead branches as needed to get debris removed
      5. Clean in all nooks and crannies 
         1. Start again at the top and reclean foliage, branch Y’s and the trunk
            1. If there is any insects they will try to hide in these areas
5. Clean up tarps as neat as possible and only dump out into a truck
   1. Be careful not to track mud onto hard surfaces 

Use a pressure washer Honda 5HP ONLY as anything higher will cause damage. There is no video for reference

For cleaning any of the following; Trucks, trailers, machines, evergreen shrubs, and all hard surfaces

1. Read the stated pages for proper operation:
   1. None listed
2. Hook up the hose(s) and washer lines and start the water supply

 

1. Warm the engine over and orient your washer line around the area to be cleaned with no kinks in the line
   1. Place machine over roadway or on lawn to prevent leaks and spills causing damage or staining
   2. Double check while operating that no oil or gas leaks occur

 

1. General Washing of Cement, asphalt, and Brick.
   1. Clear off area to be cleaned of furniture
      1. Spray degreaser (4/1 water to degreaser ratio) onto oil or other stains
   2. Always stay 6-8 inches from surface
   3. In an even and consistent pattern left to right, start from the highest elevation point and work downward/away
      1. This will push all sediment down as you clean
   4. Clean in all nooks and crannies 
      1. For best results keep an even pace and distance from the surface. This will help avoid streaking.
      2. Do not apply pressure to one spot constantly as it will remove any finish or cause damage. Continue moving the wand
      3. Brick only – Do not jet water into the cracks unless the area will be re-sanded after. Removal of the sand can cause shifting and structural issues
2. Once an area has been washed, rinse it off one more and check if any stains remain
   1. If stains remain spray degreaser again (4/1) allow to sit while starting the next area

For cleaning any of the following; Trucks, trailers, machines, evergreen shrubs, and all hard surfaces

1. Read the stated pages for proper operation:  none provided 
2. Hook up the hose(s) and washer lines and start the water supply
3. Warm the engine and orient your washer line around the unit to be cleaned with no kinks in the line
4. General Washing of Trucks, machines and trailers.
   1. Wipe all grease off as clean as possible
      1. Spray degreaser (1/1 water to degreaser ratio) onto excess grease that did not wipe off
         1. PROTIP – Do not let degreaser sit on paint or powder coating for more than 10 minutes as it can cause damage 
   2. Always stay 6-8 inches from painted or powder coated surfaces
   3. In an even and consistent pattern left to right, start from the highest point and work downward
      1. This will push all sediment down as you clean
   4. Clean in all nooks and crannies 
      1. Trucks
         1. Open the doors of vehicles and wash door hinges 
         2. Grab the car mats out of the vehicle and wash as needed
         3. Wash above wheel wells, behind bumpers, back side of fenders and panels 
      2. Trailers
         1. Clean wheel wells 
         2. Tongue of trailer
         3. Lift and secure hydraulics then clean underside where possible
         4. All cabinets and ramps
      3. Machines
         1. Lift and orient booms, and arms of skid steers to hit all possible angles
         2. Remove bed pan plates and floor plates to clean inside the bottom of the machine 
         3. Rotate machine tracks to clean all hidden areas
   5. Wash Wheels and Rims
   6. PROTIP If washing in the cold, overnight machine in a heated area 
      1. The next morning grease machine to purge any water sitting in the joints

Using bypass pruners, loppers or shears to reduce or remove plant parts. We do this first thing in spring in an effort to preserve and control plant health.

1. Remove all Decomposing plant material from the body or base of Plants
   1. This could be leaves, sticks, pine needles, or even bark mulch that was piled too high on the bark of the plant which could rot the trunk
2. Plan Approach to Pruning  using the 3D’s 
   1. Dead
      1. Remove any parts showing as dead
         1. First check the end of the branches have color and pass the snap test
         2. If still unsure, use your pruner blade scrap away a very small section of bark to reveal if there is a green cambium layer
      2. Remove entire plant only if the plant is nearly or completely dead
         1. Remove and notify leader for needed replacement
      3. Damaged
         1. Reduce or remove any damaged branches
            1. This could be broken, rubbing/crossing and/or synched
         2. Remove entire plant only if necessary  
      4. Diseased
         1. Reduce or remove diseased branches
            1. This could be mildew, gall, fasciation, mites or other insects
         2. Remove entire plant only if necessary 
3. Then think about the 2F’s, Function and Form
   1. Form
      1. Look at overall plant density and shape 
      2. Ensure the pruning is as uniform as possible
         1. Especially if there was heavy pruning needed from the 3D’s
         2. PROTIP – Prune now with an idea in mind of what size you want the shrub to be in the future (this year and beyond), we can slow the progression towards the plant’s height but will never beat its genetics.
            1. Does the plant have space to grow to its mature size with the least amount of needed intervention?
               1. If yes, great 
               2. If not, is it the right plant for that plant?
      3. Overall there should be space in the center of the plant to ensure good airflow 
         1. When opening space in the center and NOT removing the entire branch, prune to a outside facing bud
         2. You should be able to see light through the canopy
   2. Function
      1. Look for problem areas such as branches onto paths, lawn areas, or driveways 
      2. If the plant will continue to be a problem year after year then consider moving or replacing the plant

NOT REQUIRED – But it is great information!

Here are a couple websites that contain good information pertaining to pruning. 

• https://www.chuckstreeservices.com/blog/explore-these-7-tree-pruning-methods
• https://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/earthkind/landscape/proper-pruning-techniques/
• https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q9BXtp_GH4A&list=PLMnDQoXFVBEZG1r8tCNWqbE9rFGTUZTo0
• https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MXcrXrpAMhQ&list=PLp6_TFk8L3mlwIsYl4tMGTh-adbaxzHin

 

Definitions of Terms

Broad-leaved evergreen – an evergreen plant with broad leaves that are not needle-shaped.

Caliper – refers to the diameter of a tree. In nursery-landscape practice, caliper is measured 6 inches above the ground level up to and including 4-inch diameter size and 12 inches above the ground level for larger sizes.

Candle – refers to early spring growth of pine shoots before needle expansion.

Central leader – the main stem of the tree from which other branches develop. In most cases, it is the trunk.

Crotch – the angle developed between two connecting branches.

Deciduous – plants that normally have leaves only during the growing season and lose their leaves during the dormant season.

Dieback – the dying back of stems due to adverse weather conditions, insects, diseases or other causes.

Dormant – the period of the year when a plant is not growing.

Espalier – to train a plant on a wire or trellis against a wall or other support.

Lateral – a branch originating from the main trunk.

Multiple stemmed plants – plants with more than one stem form the base compared to plants with only a central leader.

Narrow-leaved evergreen – an evergreen plant with leaves that are needle-shaped.

Permanent branch – a branch that is part of the major growth habit of the tree, usually originating from the trunk.

Radial branch spacing – the distribution of branches around the trunk of a tree.

Scaffold branching – a permanent branch originating from the trunk and becoming a part of the major branching or framework of the tree.

Shearing – cutting back plants with hedge shears resulting in a very formal growth habit. Limit shearing to hedges, topiary or where a formal garden is to be maintained.

Sucker – a vigorous shoot originating from root or stem tissue below ground.

Temporary branch – a branch usually originating from the trunk that is removed by pruning after permanent branches have been selected.

Terminal – tip ends of branches.

Thinning – removal of connecting branches to point of origin or shortening the length of a branch by cutting to a lateral.

Training – to dictate the development and growth of a plant by physical means, such as pruning.

Vertical branch spacing – distribution of branches up and down the trunk of a tree.

Water sprout – vigorous shoot arising from the trunk or older branches.

Wound – area where the bark of a plant is cut or damaged

Using bypass pruners, loppers to reduce or remove plant parts. We do this first thing in spring in an effort to preserve and control plant health.

1. Read the general pruning SOP
2. Remove all Decomposing plant material from the body or base of Plants
   1. This could be leaves, sticks, pine needles, or even bark mulch that was piled too high on the bark of the plant which could rot the trunk
3. Plan Approach to Pruning  using the 3D’s, Dead, damaged and diseased
4. Then think about the 2F’s, Function and Form
5. Spring
   1. Regular Barberry varieties
      1. Remove one third of the old and new wood if needed
         1. Old wood is typically gray brown in color, rough to touch but little if any thorns
         2. New wood is typically red brown in color, smooth to touch with many thorns
      2. Check for and remove knobby growths where the plant has been continuously pruned to the same height, this will help restore natural form
         1. Allow to grow in a Vase/V shape for a natural form
         2. Trim long narrow new growth back to a desired shape for a more “formal” look
   2. Dwarf Barberry Varieties
      1. Remove one third of the old wood if needed
      2. Prune lowest branches slightly off the ground
         1. Clean out any trapped debris while inside
      3. Lightly thin the canopy
6. Summer
   1. Regular and dwarf Barberry varieties
      1. Natural form, trim as needed
      2. Formal form, trim consistently once per or bi-monthly
7. Winter
   1. If very long and leggy, tighten up for winter and leave

Using bypass pruners, and hedger to reduce or remove plant parts. We do this in an effort to preserve and control plant health.

1. Read the general pruning SOP
2. Remove all Decomposing plant material from the body or base of Plants
   1. This could be leaves, sticks, pine needles, or even bark mulch that was piled too high on the bark of the plant which could rot the trunk
3. Plan Approach to Pruning  using the 3D’s 
4. Then think about the 2F’s, Function and Form
   1. Due to constant hedge trimming throughout the year, boxwoods develop stiff woody areas that block light from entering the plant core.
5. Spring
   1. Using your hand to lightly push down or inward, walk around your hedge or stand alone boxwood and feel for any stiff areas right at the surface
      1. Then take your bypass pruners and trim that branch to the next available branch/bud or off if needed
         1. Doing this once per year is all you need 
   2. This is the best time to trim large portions of your hedge off (Ex: hedge is too tall or wide)
      1. Before trimming to desired height, double check there is still green leaves at the level you want to prune
6. Summer
   1. Trim your hedge once per month or as needed
   2. Keep a close eye on the growth
      1. Hazy gray discoloration with patchy growth could mean lack of water but most commonly is spider mites. Sooner we catch this, the better as they can easily kill boxwoods
7. Winter
   1. Trim once more if needed to keep hedges or stand alone boxwoods to tight for winter

Using bypass pruners, loppers to reduce or remove plant parts. We do this first thing in spring in an effort to preserve and control plant health.

1. Read the general pruning SOP
2. Remove all Decomposing plant material from the body or base of Plants
   1. This could be leaves, sticks, pine needles, or even bark mulch that was piled too high on the bark of the plant which could rot the trunk
3. Plan Approach to Pruning  using the 3D’s
   1. LEAVE DEAD PRUNING FOR LATER 
4. Then think about the 2F’s, Function and Form
5. Hydrangea Specifics – Spring
   1. Panicle – Hydrangea Paniculata
      1. Prune all deadwood and small branches out
      2. Prune to stag horn style 
         1. This mean following last years growth back to where it originates and pruning all but 3-6 buds off last years growth
            1. PROTIP – Leave the least amount of buds possible (on last years growth) left will mean the same amount of energy to less number of buds equals less but much bigger and more distinct flowers
         2.  Last years growth is typically brown red
         3. Old growth is gray with a bit of silver
   2. Mophead and Lacecap – Hydrangea Macrophylla
      1. Only Prune the 3D’s then very lightly the tallest old wood can be pruned leaving a uniform level of stems with a terminal bud (a bud at the end of the stem)
         1. Older wood is typically gray silver  
         2. New wood is light brown starting to have some gray
   3. Smooth – Hydrangea Arborescens
      1. Leave 10-20% of the strongest most upright deadwood at 14-18 inches tall, this will help create a structure for the new growth to follow and prolong upright growth before the inevitable midseason flopping happens
         1. Try to sell metal cages to our clients to further prolong it
   4. Oakleaf – Hydrangea Quercifolia
      1. Deadhead if needed
      2. Prune all dead wood out
   5. Climbing – Hydrangea Petiolaris
      1. Deadhead if needed
      2. Prune all dead wood out
      3. Direct growth and prune off unwanted areas
      4. Clean off all leaves trapped in branchings
6. Summer maintenance
   1. Panicle – Hydrangea Paniculata
      1. Only prune if any of the 3D’s or 2F’s appear
         1. Generally due to flop into walkways and lawn areas or improper stress management
   2. Mophead and Lacecap – Hydrangea Macrophylla
      1. After Flowering is finishing prune to the size as needed so the plant can set flower buds for the following year
   3. Smooth – Hydrangea Arborescens
      1. Only prune if any of the 3D’s or 2F’s appear
         1. Generally due to flop into walkways and lawn areas or improper stress management
   4. Oakleaf – Hydrangea Quercifolia
      1. Leave them be
   5. Climbing – Hydrangea Petiolaris
      1. Leave them be
7. Fall
   1. Panicle – Hydrangea Paniculata
      1. Prune new growth/deadhead by half of this years growth
   2. Mophead and Lacecap – Hydrangea Macrophylla
      1. Tidy up fallen leaves out of the base of the plant and leave for the winter
   3. Smooth – Hydrangea Arborescens
      1. Prune new growth/deadhead by half of this years growth
   4. Oakleaf – Hydrangea Quercifolia
      1. Deadhead and leave them be
   5. Climbing – Hydrangea Petiolaris
      1. Deadhead and leave them be

Using bypass pruners, loppers to reduce or remove plant parts. We do this first thing in spring in an effort to preserve and control plant health.

1. Read the general pruning SOP
2. Remove all Decomposing plant material from the body or base of Plants
   1. This could be leaves, sticks, pine needles, or even bark mulch that was piled too high on the bark of the plant which could rot the trunk
      1. On roses this includes the woody base from which the stems originate
3. Plan Approach to Pruning  using the 3D’s 
4. Then think about the 2F’s, Function and Form
5. Rose Specifics – Spring
   1. Carpet Roses
      1. Prune to leave the best 9-12 canes with outward facing buds at 6-8 inches tall
         1. This should leave lots of room for new growth from the base and off old wood
      2. Generally removing ⅓ of the older wood to provide space for rejuvenation
   2. Landscape Roses
      1. Prune to leave the best 7-9 canes with outward facing buds at 8-12 inches tall
      2. Generally removing ⅓ of the older wood to provide space for rejuvenation
   3. Hybrid Tea Roses
      1. Prune to leave the best 5-7 canes with outward facing buds at 10-16 inches tall
      2. Generally removing ⅓ of the older wood to provide space for rejuvenation
   4. Climbing Roses
      1. Prune to leave the best 5-7 canes with outward facing buds at height determined by the structure it is growing on
      2. Generally removing ⅓ of the older wood to provide space for rejuvenation
      3. Require Lateral branches to flower, leave multiple LATERAL branches on each cane for best flowering
6. Summer maintenance
   1. Dead Heading 
      1. Cut Back to 5-7 leaflets
      2. Prune as rose petals are looking spent or have already fallen off
         1. PROTIPs – If you preemptively prune off flowers which are just becoming spent it will prevent the petals from falling all over the ground
         2. Prune roses BEFORE blowing the garden beds so you can not worry about making a mess and the mower can suck up any petals on the lawn
         3. Lightly shaking a flower or branch will show you if the petals are ready to fall off even when they are still vibrant
7. Fall
   1. Cut all roses by ½ 
   2. For hybrid tea and climbing roses apply mulch to make a “hill” (6-10 inches) within the plants core to protect it from winter frost
      1. The mulch MUST BE DRY as possible, this will prevent moisture from being placed around the base of the bark causing rot or death through the winter.

Using bypass pruners, loppers, shear and hedgers to reduce or remove plant parts. We do this in an effort to preserve and control plant health.

1. Read the general pruning SOP
2. Remove all Decomposing plant material from the body or base of Plants
   1. This could be leaves, sticks, pine needles, or even bark mulch that was piled too high on the bark of the plant which could rot the trunk
3. Plan Approach to Pruning
4. Spring
   1. Cut the plant down by 50-75% with a hedge trimmer
      1. Clean up any poor cuts afterwards 
   2. Use the 3D’s, Dead, damaged and diseased
      1. PROTIP – For a very old/overgrown plant lightly push stems horizontally and dead wood will break for easy removal
   3. Remove one third of the old wood
      1. Old wood is typically gray brown in color, stiff
      2. New wood is typically brown red in color, fairly plyable
   4. Then think about the 2F’s, Function and Form
5. Summer
   1. Trim off flowers with hedgers or shears after they are spent (typically bi-monthly)
6. Winter
   1. If very long and leggy, tighten up for winter and leave

 

Leaf, shrub, hard, and landscape rakes all have their own purpose. Use them for their designated jobs and it should take less time while doing a better job.

1. Leaf Rake
   1. Used for cleaning up large areas of open ground lawn or hardscape
      1. During lawn startup used to rake grass
         1. PROTIP – With both hands holding the rake like a pole the bottom hand actioning inward toward your feet while walking backward is the quickest way to clean up grass clippings
      2. During Shrub bed start up raking leaves which sat over winter
      3. During summer clean ups when there are larger amounts of debris
      4. During Fall clean up raking leaves
2. Shrub Rake
   1. 8in
      1. Used for Cleaning shrub beds only, typically in tight areas and around bases of plants
   2. 16in
      1. Used for cleaning shrub beds and sometimes lawn piles when it would be more efficient than walking to the truck for a leaf rake
      2. Used in larger wide open beds to cover ground quickly
3. 1. Raking through the beds to clean debris, help pick weeds and put the finishing touches on
      1. PROTIPs – In order to clean the beds of debris and leave the mulch or soil where it lies the motion is a light stroke with almost a flick at the end to pull debris in the wanted direction
         1. Lowering the angle of the rake pole to the ground while pulling debris also lowers the amount of soils that are picked up at the same time
      2. Using the 90 degree edge of the tines you can pick small weeds while raking so you don’t have to pick them by hand
      3. Ruffle raking is a side to side motion of the rake tines firmly pressed into the mulch or soil. This can loosen small weeds to be picked up. Lightly turn over the top portion of the soil for a fresh look or fluff up mulch.
      4.  If done correctly this can end up with a half moon style texture to the soil adding an extra layer of visual texture to the yard. Typically only going for this look on special occasions as it can take extra time
4. Hard Rake
   1. Used for grading soils, bark mulch, rock mulch, sand and other
      1. PROTIP – When grading mulch the tines are approximately 3 inches for perfect reference on the needed mulch depth
   2. Using the tines a rough grade can be found quickly
      1. When raking soil, bark mulch, sand and other fine soils the tines will pull roots, rocks and other large debris cleaning them out for better grading
   3. Using the flat side of the rake head you can get a much for precise grade 
5. Landscape Rake
   1. Used for fine tuning wide area grading such as soil before turf is to be laid
   2. Same idea for the uses of the sides as the hard rake but will not be used to clear larger debris

Weed spraying of all kinds is to be used as little as possible. Typically it is used to help get a population of weeds under control quickly and economically. Then we move back to picking weeds.

1. Gather and put on the required gear listed below with each type of herbicide or read the Material Data Safety Sheet (MDSS) on the side of the labelled concentrate
2. Ensure your spray tank is in good working condition
   1. Holds pressure, is clean, no visible leaks, straps are connected securely, and the handle trigger has full range of motion
3. Fill three quarters of the desired amount of water into the tank
   1. Double check what size your tank is before use. We have 15L, 12L, 8L and 5L tanks
4. Label the tank with a piece of tape written on with marker and the ratio mixed at
5. Calculate and add the herbicide amount to the water (ratios below)
6. Lightly rinse your measurement instruments into the tank while filling the final quarter of water
7. Rinse your measurement instruments again over a hard surface
8. PROTIP – (for all spraying) plan your spray route to include the least amount of herbicide exposure.
   1. This means starting in the farthest or tightest part of the work area and work out not stepping back through the area until safe to do so
   2. This will also lead to best results as you will not disturb the sprayed solution on your target area
9. Herbicides
   1. Credit X-Treme – Non-selective Herbicide (Kills every plant it touches in sufficient quantity
      1. Ratio: 20ml per Litre of water
         1. Spray to wet the surface evenly (no dripping or run off of solution off the weed)
         2. Do not get on any plant or lawn surface
         3. Spray as needed
         4. PROTIP – when spraying around a lawn stay pick weeds about 4 inches away from lawn edge then spray the rest as herbicide can leach into the lawn roots 
         5. PROTIP – DO NOT spray an area while walking through the solution then walk onto a lawn area. Also do not reenter an sprayed area while the solution is still wet and walk onto the lawn. This will kill all the lawn where you step.
         6. PPE – Wear long pants, long or short sleeve shirt, gloves, and steel toe boots
   2. Par III – Selective broadleaf herbicide (Kills broadleaf weeds such as dandelions, clover, black medic, mallow, plantain, surge) 
      1. Ratio: 18ml per Litre of water
         1. This solution is generally used in lawns as it will not kill the grass when properly applied
         2. Spray to drip on plant surface (the solution begins to drip off the surface of the weed)
         3. PROTIP – Weeds like plantain and clover usually need a little extra spraying them a bit more doesn’t hurt
         4. Spray as needed but generally if properly applied, bi-monthly should keep weeds at bay – We have a zero tolerance for weeds in lawns
         5. PPE – Wear long pants, long or short sleeve shirt, gloves, and steel toe boots
   3. Chateau – Germination inhibitor (Doesn’t allow germination of weed seeds down to 1/2in)
      1. Ratio: 15ml per Litre of water or 1 tablespoon
         1. This product is used for spraying on bare ground to prevent weeds from germinating
         2. Spray the product thoroughly to get 1/2in depth of penetration into the medium
         3. PROTIP – This product can be mixed in conjunction with Credit X-treme to kill any weeds that have germinated already but because of the amount needed to spray to a 1/2in depth, lower the mix ratio to 10ml per litre of water
      2. PPE – Wear a N-95 or P100 rated mask, long sleeves and pants, gloves, goggles, steel toe boots
10. Fill out pesticide application records for documentation
11. If the tank is empty triple rinse safely on bare ground
    1. Wear any PPE needed for spraying the product being washed, rinse thoroughly,  pump clean water through the hose as well. Repeat 3 times
12. Place the tank securely back in storage

Knowledge of all personal safety equipment available to employees including but not limited to: Earmuffs/earplugs, Safety Glasses, Gloves, Hats, Dust masks (not a respirator), Steel-toed boots etc.

Knows when personal safety equipment is needed and its proper application

Knowledge of safety procedures working around heavy equipment including but not limited to: Skid Steer, Excavator, Trucks and Trailers

Understands safe lifting and carrying techniques

Understands general landscape safety rules

Able to properly load Equipment on trailers

Able to properly shovel and dig safely

Understands safe pesticide storage and transportation

Understands the dangers of heat stress and how to deal with it

Understands how to safely back up a vehicle

Understands the procedures for filling out and filing incident reports

Demonstrate proper procedures for working on ladders

Demonstrates safety procedures to operate all tools and equipment used at Creative Roots Landscaping

Be able to demonstrate the proper use and practice preventative maintenance for the following equipment:
· All hand tools
· Rakes
· Shovels
· Loppers
· Pruners
· Pruning saws
· Back pack/hand sprayers
· Wheel Barrows
· Blowers/Backpack Blowers
· Hand shears
· Power shears
· Axes/Hatchets
· Power Head
· Line Trimmer
· Lawn Mower

Able to properly sharpen, clean, sanitize and maintain personal Felcos to ensure clean, healthy, safe pruning

Sharpening and maintaining loppers, hand shears

Able to mix fuel precisely in the correct ratios

Able to complete basic repairs on equipment with small engines:
· Clean air filter
· Determine proper fuel
· Repair pull cords
· Clean the spark plug
· Check oil (if applicable) and top up if needed

Tools – Able to properly use hand pruners and saws

Tools – Able to properly clean and general maintenance of tools

Pruning Cuts – Able to determine proper placement of pruning cut (identify the branch collar and does not leave a long stub)

Pruning Cuts – Able to explain the importance of the branch collar for the placement of the pruning cut

Pruning Cuts – Able to perform proper use of hedge shears

Tools – Able to sharpen pruning blades

Trees – Able to make a proper pruning cut on a tree

Trees – Able to Explain the difference between removal cut, reduction cut and heading cut

Trees – Able to Identify and Report hazardous tree situations

Trees – Explain the difference between crown raising, cleaning, thinning and reduction

Fruit Trees – Recommend appropriate pruning for each type of fruit tree found in the region

Shaping – Identify shrubs commonly used by CR and its clients during all seasons

Shaping – Able to Identify and Explain the best timing for pruning shrubs including the impact of late summer pruning

Pruning Cuts – Identify and explain included bark and, where present, decide on the appropriate pruning cut

Pruning Cuts – Able to determine and peform Structural pruning required on a young tree

Pruning Cuts – Explain the aspect ratio and its importance and apical dominance

Pruning Cuts – Explain the function of the branch protection zone during pruning

Trees – Recommend the appropriate pruning for a tree previously topped

Trees – Recommend the appropriate pruning for a conifer tree (spruce, pine, fir)

Trees – Recommend pruning for a mature tree (type, dose, size of branches, timing of work)

Trees – Recommend appropriate practices for veteran trees

Trees – Manage a hazard tree condition

Shaping – Build a seasonal calendar of pruning for plants found on the property

Blowing – Able to properly operate a Blower including: • Fill up blower with correct gas in correct location • Identify and use the proper safety equipment • Start and Stop the blower • Store the blower for travel • Perform basic maintenance on blower

Line Trimming – Able to properly operate the Line Trimmer including: • Clean the trimmer • Grease the trimmer head • Identify and use the proper safety equipment • Install new line in the trimmer • Operate the trimmer vertically and horizontally • Start and Stop the Line Trimmer • Store trimmer for travelling • Perform basic Maintenance on Line Trimmer

Mowing – Able to properly operate a mower including: • Clean Mower • Identify and use the proper safety equipment • Load and unload the mower • Go onto and off a lawn • Mow around the edge of a lawn, around tress and in a straight line • Start and Stop a Mower • Store Mower for travelling • Perform basic maintenance on a mower

Power Edger – Able to properly operate a Power Edger including: • Clean the power head/power edger • Detach and reattach the power edger • Fuel up the Power Head with correct gas • Grease the power edger • Identify and use the proper safety equipment • Replace the blade • Start and Stop the Power Edger • Demonstrate how to power edge a lawn properly • Perform basic maintenance on Power Edger

Power Raking – Able to Operate the Power Rake properly including: • Identify and use the proper safety equipment • Start and stop power rake • Clean the power rake • Store the power rake for travelling • Perform basic maintenance on power rake

Aerating – Able to operate Aerator proplery including: • Identify and use the proper safety equipment • Identify and use the proper safety equipment • Start and stop aerator • Clean the aerator • Store the aerator for travelling • Perform basic maintenance on aerator

Knowledge of all the steps and procedures needed to complete weekly mowing, and is able to carry out each step proficiently

Fertilizing – Able to operate the Fertilzer Spreader properly including: • Fill up with fertilizer spreader • Identify and use the proper safety equipment • Check the fertilizer spreader tire pressure • Lubricate the fertilizer spreaders gears and moving parts • Understanding of when to open and close the hopper while fertilizing to avoid burning the turf • Understand the fertilizer spread for different application rates and how much over lap is appropriate to ensure an even spread • Clean the fertilizer spreader • Store fertilizer bags and spreader for travelling

Knowledge of all the steps needed to complete a lawn start, and is able to carry out each one proficiently

Power Raking – Understanding of how to set the height of the power rake and how it can affect the lawns health and look

Aerating – Knowledge of the best way the determine where heads may be located in a lawn and how to avoid damaging them with the aerator

Understanding of how to replace and repair turf efficiently

Understanding of how to properly seed a turf area

Understanding of what advantages aerating and power raking have for a lawn

IPM – Lawn Spraying: • Make sure sprayer is clean of all other chemicals used in previous situations • Read both the product label and the sprayer’s owner’s manual to properly mix and calibrate the product for the situation • Ensure safety of others in the surrounding area • Keep the spray pattern even and consistent • Post signage to warn the public as to what area has been sprayed and how long to say off of the area • Determine the appropriate way to dispose of excess chemical • Empty and dispose of containers safely • Clean the sprayer

Mowing – Able to Detach and reattach the blade, Sharpen the Blade and Understanding of how to set mower heights and how it can affect a lawns health and look

Fertilizing – Able to determine the correct fertilizer for the application, Set the application rate, Check and change or adjust fertilizer spreaders cables

IPM – Lawn Spraying – Identify a problem and the right product and action to treat

Trouble shoot problems areas with (but not limited to): · Dry spots · Damp areas · Disease · Poor nutrients · Insufficient soil · Thatch issues · Shade problems

Determine the needs of each lawn area and adjust irrigation, fertilizing, topdressing, over seeding, weed control, aerating appropriately

Knowledge of the different types of grass seed

Understanding of compaction and how it can affect turf

Power Raking – Understanding of how to Change and replace the cutting blades

Aerating – Clean out and change the aeration tines

to be completed

to be completed

to be completed

to be completed

to be completed